If the snake is too large for soaking in its bowl, the animal should be removed from the cage and soaked at least once weekly in a tub of tepid water. Water dishes should be wide, preferably large enough for the snake to soak in, and placed under a heat source to promote evaporation. These hides should contain approximately 1-2 inches of damp sphagnum, peat, or green moss, which should be changed out whenever soiled. Humid hides made out of enclosed Tupperware, Rubbermaid, or other appropriately sized plastic tubs should be provided for all red tail boas that are kept in screen top cages. A hygrometer can be used to monitor humidity levels. Humidity: Red tail boas prefer a humidity of 60-70%. Red tail boas do not require specialized UV lighting. Plastic dial thermometers, or any thermometer with a fixed placement, are often unreliable, and do not adequately gauge thermal gradients inside entire enclosures. It is important to purchase a temperature gun, or digital thermometers that possess probes, for accurate temperature readings. “Hot rocks” should not be used, as they often lead to severe burns. The heat source should always be placed outside the cage, as snakes may curl up around it and burn themselves if they have access to it. Appropriate heating elements are ceramic heat emitters or various heat bulbs (provided that any light-emitting heat bulbs are turned off at night), or under tank heaters attached to thermostats. A red tail boa’s enclosure should have a temperature of around 80☏ at the cooler end and 88-90☏ on the hot end, with a basking spot of 90-95☏. This allows the snake to self regulate his/her body temperature by moving from one end of the cage to the other. Heating/Lighting: A thermal gradient should be provided for all red tail boas, with one side of the tank being cooler and the other side being warmer. It is not recommended to house more than one snake together unless you are actively trying to breed them. Red tail boas are solitary animals except during breeding season, they don’t associate with other snakes. Hiding spots large enough for the snake to curl up in completely should be provided in both the cool and warm ends of the enclosure. Wood chips or shavings are not recommended, as they can give off fumes or dust which can irritate the snake’s respiratory system. The bottom of the cage should be lined with reptile carpet, newspaper, paper towels, or recycled paper, because these substrates are easy to clean. A small snake in a big cage can become overwhelmed and stressed. Juveniles do best in small enclosures that make them feel secure. However, take note that any screen top cage will make it more difficult to provide adequate humidity. Many different enclosures work well for red tail boas, including plastic tub containers, melamine racks, or any of the commercially available glass aquariums made for reptiles. The enclosure for a red tail boa needs to be well constructed, as they are very strong and can be escape artists. Housing: The enclosure should be big enough so that the length of two adjacent sides is equal or greater than the length of the snake. They will sometimes weigh up to 50 pounds and live to 20+ years of age. There can be a wide variation in size between subspecies, with females larger than males. Found primarily in rain forest habitats, they also do well in more arid conditions. There are a number of subspecies spread across these areas, but their captive care and husbandry is the very similar across all types. The red tail boa (Boa constrictor ssp.) is a large snake in the Boid family, commonly found in South America, Central America, southern sections of North America, and the Caribbean.
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